5 second rule

Marmalade

Ah, Runaround Sous.  Runaround, Runaround, Runaround. I'll stick to her blog name to lend her an air of intrigue.  She'll like that.

A year or two ago I would have cocked my eyebrow at the notion of an internet-facilitated friendship.  Hanging out with someone I got to know online?  That's just creepy.

And yet, that's pretty much what happened with the two of us.  Sure, our sons were in the same first grade class last year, but we probably exchanged only 10 words between September and June.  I'd compliment her cute skirts, and she'd say, "Thanks" followed by, simply:

"Target."

But now we're pals.  She's a consistent presence on this blog, and we've even started doing the ditch-and-run.  You know, where you make something tasty, drive it to a friend's house, ring the bell, and run away.  It started with some biscotti she dropped off on my doorstep a few months ago.  I followed up with pumpkin mini tarts.  Then a week ago, she drove over a beautiful, ribbon-tied container of marmalade.  The handmade label read:

"Lady Marmalade, 1/09:  Blood orange. Ruby Grapefruit. Meyer Lemon. Vanilla."

And with that, she raised the stakes.  I guess now I need to make her a turducken or something equally elaborate.

Her marmalade is a glossy wonder.  It's chunky with fruit and peel, and though it's flavored with a trio of winter citrus, there's nothing wintry about it.  The hue calls to mind a tutu, a wad of pre-licked cotton candy, or a Barbie Dream House. And it's elegant. This stuff has about as much in common with store-bought jam as an emu with a pack of chewing gum.

Here's the recipe, from Runaround to you.  It's sweet and sassy, much like she is.

Runaround Sous' Lady Marmalade

This recipe is Runaround's, and though I've certainly enjoyed it (and continue to enjoy it daily), I haven't actually tested the recipe myself.  Caveat emptor!  Runaround says, "This recipe was inspired by Artisan Bread in Five Minutes a Day by Jeff Hertzberg and Zoe Francois, Carolyn Jung, and the package of Sure-Jell."

The recipe below (A Little Bit of Lovin') makes about 4 cups of marmalade.

2-4 blood oranges*
1-2 Meyer lemons*
1/4 Ruby Red grapefruit *
(* enough fruit/juice to equal 2 cups)

1/2 vanilla bean, split lengthwise
Pinch of baking soda
1-1/4 cups water
2-3/4 c. sugar
1/2 box of Sure-Jell pectin ( It's easier to weigh this... I used 24g)

Cut away the colored zest from the fruit. Chop coarsely and set aside.

Chop the fruit, discarding the seeds and reserving the juice.

Place the zest, vanilla bean, baking soda and water in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce heat; cover and simmer 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add fruit and juice; simmer another 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, measure out the sugar and set aside. (Do not reduce the sugar or the marmalade may not set properly.)

After the 10 minutes are up, stir the pectin into the fruit mixture. Bring to a full, rolling boil.

Stir in the sugar quickly, return to a full, rolling boil and cook for 1 minute. Remove from the heat, scrape any of the remaining vanilla seeds into the mixture (then discard the pod), and skim off any foam.

Pour into clean canning or freezer jars. Let set at room temperature for 24 hours. You can refrigerate the marmalade for 2 months or freeze for 1 year.

For "A Whole Lot of Lovin'" (about 7-8 cups), double the batch...

printable pdf

Challenge

For me, roasting a whole fish was the culinary equivalent of climbing Kilimanjaro.  It was something I'd never done that intimidated me, but there was a certain draw, a longing, to conquer the task nonetheless.  When my dad and stepmother visited from New York this past weekend, I had my opportunity.

Neither Barbara nor I really knew where to begin.  We were both raised in the suburbs (the same one, in fact), where fishing was not so much on the agenda.  And if you don't catch a fish yourself, why on earth would you cook one whole? 

But many glossy cookbooks, particularly those devoted to entertaining, or those (ghost)written by restaurant chefs, include at least one glorious recipe for whole roasted fish. The photos spew drama, too, with the fish all dolled up, adorned with vegetables and herbs and aromatics and garnishes, like so much bling and finery.  It stares at you from the pages, like, Can you believe they made me wear this stuff?

(As an aside, learning to break down a whole, obscenely large fish in culinary school was the bloodiest mess I've ever been or ever hope to be, and that includes childbirth.)

Barbara and I eventually decided we'd roast a bream, since we came across a straightforward recipe in Anne Willan's La Varenne Pratique.  It didn't bother us that we had no idea what a bream was.

My friend Stacy had told me about a fish market in downtown San Jose called Race Street Fish & Poultry, so we headed there.  Only they didn't have bream.  In fact, the only whole fish they had, other than a 10 pound salmon which would have been way, way too big for 4 adults, was trout, and though it was fresh and looked tasty enough, it didn't scream Impressive with a capital I.  Trout are small and friendly. They're not Kilimanjaro.

But we forged ahead anyway, 3 trout in our bag, anticipation bubbling.  And we roasted those suckers, two ways, too.  The first, Asian-style, over a bed of roasted broccoli, oyster mushrooms, and baby bok choy moistened with soy sauce and sesame oil.  The second, Mediterranean-style, over roasted peppers, zucchini, fennel, and onions, with a few Meyer lemon slices tossed on top for good measure.

They were delicious.  And embarrassingly easy to prepare.

I wish I could provide you with the recipes, I really do, but I was too distracted to take notes, and anyway, when it came time to serve the fish I made a total and complete mess and vowed --  now that I had climbed my own personal culinary mountain (or, more accurately, small hill) -- to grant you the permission to stick with fillets and steaks since they're so much neater to serve. 

If you want a real culinary challenge, I'd suggest making a Croquembouche instead. 

Trout

In an ideal world, I'd be telling you about the whole trout I prepared this weekend.  But I can't.

At least not yet.

So instead I'm going to tell you about the salad I made with the leftover fish, presuming you'll wave your magic wand and poof!  Leftover trout will appear in your fridge and you'll be moved to finger it into little flakes and mound it atop this sophisticated, lemony, bacony salad.

This salad is really about the bacon.  Why?  Because I wrote about bacon today over at Accidental Hedonist, and I needed a proper segue, and so... There.

Bacon.

I'm find myself getting bolder with salads.  My dressings are becoming brasher and more acidic, like a back-talking teen who just discovered he can sneak out the window without getting caught.  The greens are becoming darker and heartier, and the flavor combos far less predictable.  Nuts generally make an appearance, as do Meyer lemons because -- frankly -- with a tree in my yard I refuse to hit the vinegar when I can squeeze a fresh lemon instead.

Watch out, people.  I may not be serving up bacon cupcakes, but I'm still living on the edge.

...

Recipe for Mixed Greens with Trout, Bacon, and Toasted Almonds in a Meyer Lemon Dressing

Here's a big entree salad for one very hungry person.  The dressing is sharp because that's the way I like it.  If you can't handle the truth, feel free to use a little more olive oil.  Please note that I used leftover roasted trout when preparing this recipe.  It will be just as tasty, if a bit saltier, if you opt for smoked trout, so please downgrade the added salt accordingly.

Serves 1 hearty eater, or 2 smaller ones

Juice of 1/2 Meyer lemon

1-1/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Large pinch salt

Freshly ground black pepper

3 cups loosely packed mixed greens

2 pieces cooked bacon, crumbled

3/4 cup cooked, flaked trout

2 tablespoons toasted, sliced almonds

In a large salad bowl, whisk together the lemon juice, olive oil, and some salt and pepper.  Set 1 tablespoon of dressing aside in a small bowl.  Add the mixed salad greens and crumbled bacon to the salad bowl and toss to coat.  Using tongs, mound the salad in a big heap on a serving platter. 

Now add the flaked trout to the smaller bowl with the reserved dressing and stir to coat.  Scoop the trout atop the greens, sprinkle with the almonds, and serve.

printable pdf

Overheard

I did not receive authorization from the children quoted below to use their names in this post, so I'm forced to rely on pseudonyms: Boy A and Boy B.  Unfortunately, Boy B, who shall remain nameless, has begun reading my blog, so my days writing about him, even obliquely, may be numbered.

Boy A to Boy B, in the back seat of my car:  So... what's the WORST thing that's ever happened to you?

[10 second, thoughtful, prolonged, incredibly dramatic pause]

Boy B:  Well [big, heavy sigh] ... I once had to eat Brussels sprouts.

...

And my friend Jacqui just sent me this, from the website Overheard in New York:

The Five Second Rule Does Not Apply to Buses

Disgusted mother to little girl who picked up a Swedish fish she dropped on the bus floor:  Don't eat that.

Little girl, dusting it off: It's okay, I'll kiss it up to god.

Mother: Don't you dare put that in your mouth.  You have no idea what was on the floor.

Little girl, putting it in her mouth and chewing it: It's okay!  I kissed it up to god! (swallows it)  What are you going to do about it?

Mother, angrily: I'm not going to do anything.  You're just going to die.

-Q18 Bus

Squash

 

I'm finding myself oddly attracted to squash.  Their round forms, their autumnal hues, their distinct striations and quirky bumps.

Problem is, I can't get myself to cook them. 

I daydream as I watch them relax on my kitchen counter, huddled together for warmth and companionship on this drab, gray, January day.

Is there any shame in keeping them on as pets? 

Stir-fry

Vegetarian entrees are the new meat and potatoes of 2009.  What I mean is that more non-vegetarians, like myself, are beginning to cook vegetarian meals several times each week, not in an act of defiant meat avoidance, but because we like the way the food tastes and how it makes us feel.

Last week, my colleague Charmian Christie of Christie's Corner posted a request from one of her readers for a lactose-free, vegetarian meal for her family of 5.  The comments and suggestions flew back and forth, and today Charmian, Elizabeth Kricfalusi from Embrace Adventure, and I are all posting vegetarian entrees for our readers.  (Charmian's recipe is here.  Elizabeth's is here.)

For my part, I offer up a classic Asian stir-fry.  This may be old-hat to many of you, so if you're a stir-fry pro, feel free to jump ahead to the recipe.

Can you throw any old vegetables into a wok and turn out a slam-dunk dish?  Not quite.  You'll want to avoid those that take too long to cook (sweet potatoes, for example, or beets) and stick to veggies that pair nicely with Asian accompaniments.  Beyond that, let the contents of your fridge guide you.

A primer:

*Think about color, texture, and flavor as you gather your ingredients.  A creative nod to all three will produce the most appealing meal.

*Cut everything into relatively small pieces for quick cooking.

*Have ingredients prepped and ready before heating up your wok or skillet.

*Choose an oil like canola, peanut, or garlic oil for high-heat cooking.

*If you like your tofu with a nice brown crust, stir-fry it alone first, and then remove it to a plate before adding the vegetables.

*Don't overload your wok. Doing so will cause your vegetables to steam and lose texture, character, and personality.

*Never underestimate the power of garnishes.  Sprinkling your creation with cashews, peanuts, fresh herbs, and/or toasted sesame seeds adds a top layer of crunch and an added hit of flavor.

*Drizzle the lot with sesame oil, soy sauce, or both just before serving, and keep the bottle at the table.

Have more stir-fry tips or flavor combinations to share?  You know what to do.  And don't forget to see what Charmian and Elizabeth have on offer today, too.

...

Recipe for Vegetable Stir-Fry with Crisp Tofu and Toasted Cashews

The mix of vegetables in this dish can be swapped at will.  I simply used what I had on hand, but you can make as many substitutions as you like.  Just remember that harder vegetables will take longer to cook than softer ones, and that you really want to maintain each component's crunch and character.  If you're using a wok or skillet to which food has a history of sticking, you may need to use slightly more oil.

Serves 4

4 teaspoons canola, peanut, or garlic oil, divided

4 ounces tofu, pressed dry with paper towels, cubed

1/4 cup unsalted cashews

1/4 yellow onion, chopped

3 cloves garlic, chopped

1 teaspoon minced fresh ginger

8 ounces broccoli florets, cut into small pieces

4 ounces julienned carrots

2 ounces julienned daikon

2 teaspoons soy sauce, plus additional for seasoning at the end

2 ounces bok choy, baby bok choy, you choy, or any choy you like, chopped

1/4 cup frozen peas (no need to defrost)

2 green onions, cut on the bias into 1-inch lengths

1/2 teaspoon sesame oil

Cooked brown rice, for serving

Heat a well-seasoned wok or very large skillet over medium-high heat for about 2 minutes.  Swirl in 2 teaspoons of the oil.  Add the tofu and brown on all sides, flipping frequently, for about 3 minutes.  Add the cashews and stir-fry with the tofu a minute longer until the nuts and tofu have colored.  Remove both to a plate and set aside.

Swirl in the remaining 2 teaspoons of oil.  Add onions and garlic and cook, stirring, for two minutes.  Add ginger and continue stirring.  Add broccoli, carrots, daikon,  and soy sauce.  Raise heat to high and stir-fry for about 4 minutes.  Add choy, peas, and green onions and continue stir-frying 1 to 2 minutes longer, or until vegetables are brightly colored and crisp-tender. 

Add tofu and cashews back to the wok, tossing until heated through.  Drizzle with the sesame oil and additional soy sauce to taste.  Serve immediately, over cooked brown rice.

printable pdf

Judge

 

Fundamentally, it all boils down to this: I'm a total wimp. 

When you peel away the layers of my persona and peek beneath my pores, you'll find that I'm genuinely convinced that people will find a reason to be mad at me for one reason or another. 

Do you hate me for saying that?

So when I was offered a chance to give away three Cool Waters books to my readers, I saw it as a blessing, wrapped in a curse, embalmed in an opportunity, and enveloped in the certainty that I'd surely piss somebody off by not choosing their name.

Unlike the cookie swap, where I willingly and, quite foolishly, cloaked myself in the judge's robes, this time, in a bold stroke of self-preservation, I decided to play no role in determining the winner.  Brilliant.

There was really only one person I wanted to play judge.  I don't know him from Adam, but the beauty of the internet is that strangers are approachable, and the nice ones, like this guy, are even open to judging wacky poetry contests from random bloggers they've never heard of. 

So the author of Cool Waters, who is also a tremendous food stylist, agreed to choose the contest winners, with absolutely no input from yours truly.  I now turn you over to Brian Preston-Campbell.  The following words are his:

Ok, I have made my choices. Let me start off by saying it was difficult -- there were a lot of great entries!

Here are the three I selected:

oh spicy ginger

a beer i can drink sans fear

though i'm underage

Posted by: janna | January 16, 2009 at 01:54 PM

A lemon alone is just fine

With sugar and vodka divine

Posted by: Lisa | January 18, 2009 at 01:49 PM

My babies' first drink

Is held in swell containers

Not sold in a store.

Posted by: Runaround Sous | January 19, 2009 at 09:25 PM

Runaround Sous made it particularly difficult because there were three of hers(?) that I really liked -- I chose the one I did because we have a 7 month old baby. Janna's was good because it related well to the book. Lisa's couplet appealed to me because there were an overwhelming number of haiku and it was the best example I think.

So, there you have it.  Our three winners: Janna, Lisa, and Runaround Sous.  I'll contact you privately and get your books to you ASAP.  Congratulations!

Thanks to everyone for participating.  I really liked all the poems, so be sure to direct any anger Brian's way.  His contact info's online.

Chili

I had no idea chili could be so divisive.  I knew Kansas and Texas (and Tennessee?) would fight to the death over barbecue.  I've heard Chicago deep dish loyalists talk smack about New York thin crust fanatics.  But I had no idea about chili.

A few weeks ago several food writing colleagues entered into a protracted online discussion over the relative merits of different chili styles.  With beans or without?  (Um, with?)  With ketchup or without?  (Um, without?)  Turns out there's a Chili Appreciation Society International (International!) with a vast membership, and outposts called "pods" (pods?) in 25+ states. They hold over 500 cook-offs (500!) every year.

Apparently chili is a Very Serious Food.

I did not know this.

So when one of my colleagues asked for our favorite chili recipes, I commented thus:

Funny, I just made black bean chili for dinner last night and had some again for lunch today. I used a vegetarian recipe I developed for EatingWell a few years ago... it's really, really good!  It also has a secret ingredient -- wheat berries.

The internets went silent.

All of them.

I don't know if the fan on my computer always cycled so loud, but it's all I could hear after submitting my email because no one replied to my offering.

Had I done something wrong?  Crossed a line? Broken a taboo? Offended the gods?

All of the above?

I stand by my chili.  It's zesty, it's vegetarian, it's wholesome, and it freezes beautifully.

I'm starting my own society.  The wheat berry black bean chili society.

Membership is open.

...

Recipe for Zesty Wheat Berry Black Bean Chili

I developed this recipe for EatingWell magazine, and it ran in their March/April 2007 issue.  (It's still online here.)  Remember to have your wheat berries cooked and ready to go before you begin.  If using frozen, cooked wheat berries, just toss them directly in the chili and heat through  (no need to defrost).

Makes 6 servings

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 large yellow onion, chopped
1 large yellow bell pepper, chopped
5 cloves garlic, minced
2 teaspoons chili powder
1 ½ teaspoons ground cumin
1 teaspoon dried oregano
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper
2 15-ounce cans black beans, rinsed
2 14-ounce cans no-salt-added diced tomatoes, undrained
1-2 canned chipotle peppers in adobo sauce, minced
2 cups vegetable broth
2 teaspoons light brown sugar
2 cups cooked wheat berries
Juice of 1 lime
1 avocado, diced
½ cup chopped fresh cilantro

Heat oil in a Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add onion, bell pepper, garlic, chili powder, cumin, oregano, salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 5 minutes. Add beans, tomatoes, chipotle to taste, broth and brown sugar. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce heat, cover, and simmer for 25 minutes.

Stir in cooked wheat berries and heat through, about 5 minutes more. (If using frozen wheat berries, cook until thoroughly heated.) Remove from the heat. Stir in lime juice. Garnish each bowl with avocado and cilantro.

printable pdf

hOpe

Okay, so perhaps it's a bit amateurish, but I did it with heart. 

Head over to Accidental Hedonist today, where I compare Obama's eloquence to a popover.  Well, not that it's hollow inside, quite the opposite... you need to go see.  I'm more articulate over there.

If you haven't yet submitted your haiku, couplet, or limerick for the Cool Waters book giveway, you have until midnight tonight.  And if you haven't read through the 20+ submissions so far, you're missing out.  There are some real gems.

Have a spectacular day.

Drinks

I've written before about my beverage issues. I drink mostly water since it's tough to find drinks that excite me.

As a kid, I'd suck down orange juice with breakfast and milk the rest of the day.  Sure, I'd flirt with the occasional Coke or root beer on special occasions, or indulge in a Dr. Brown's cream soda at the Heathcote Deli, but beyond that I never went too wild.  (I know someone's going to mention Bartles & Jaymes... who will it be?)

As an adult, I find soda way too sweet, hate the taste of diet anything, and can't tolerate caffeine.  Where does that leave me?  Wine, beer, hard alcohol?  Fine, but not during the day.  We all deserve healthful, quenching, and interesting drinks to round out our options.

 

Enter author Brian Preston-Campbell and photographer Jerry Errico, who have just published a book called Cool Waters: 50 Refreshing, Healthy Homemade Thirst Quenchers (Harvard Common Press, 2009).  I've seen an advance copy, and it completely scratches my itch.

The first recipe I made was a twist on the book's Key Lime and Vanilla Spritzer, but instead of using a regular orange I used a blood orange for more color.  You'll see in my shot above how much it resembles pink lemonade.  Don't be fooled, though -- the book's recipes are not sweet, and that's the point.  Drinks with flavor, quenchability, and interest, but without sweeteners, caffeine, or artificial anything.  

Recipes span the full spectrum, from the straightforward, like Honeydew-Mint Mist (honeydew, mint, and water) to the different (Eau de Carotte with carrots, Granny Smith apples, ginger, water), to the full-on exotic (Thai Red Plum Fizz  with plums, star anise, Balinese long peppers, and kaffir lime).  Spices, herbs, and fresh-squeezed juices feature prominently.

And guess what?  Thanks to the generosity of the folks at The Harvard Common Press, I've got 3 copies to give away to readers.  Before Tuesday, just write a couplet or a haiku (thanks to Laurel for the poetry idea) about any beverage at all, and I'll have a special guest judge pick the winners late next week.  Enter early, and enter often.  You can submit as many as you like.

Here, I'll start things off with a haiku:

Milk in a fat mug

Makes winter seem friendlier

If cocoa's nearby.

-and a couplet-

It's 5-o'clock and the kids both seem fine

I'm getting the corkscrew and cracking the wine.

...

Okay, so I wouldn't win with those, but the point is to have fun.

...

Recipe for Key Lime and Vanilla Spritzer with Blood Orange

Adapted from Cool Waters: 50 Refreshing, Healthy Homemade Thirst Quenchers by Brian Preston-Campbell, Harvard Common Press, 2009

I made two minuscule changes to the original recipe: used a blood orange instead of a Valencia, and bottled key lime juice instead of fresh since that's what I had.  Be aware that this drink is not sweet, but it is quite refreshing.

Makes 4 servings

1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise

1/4 cup key lime juice

Juice of 1 blood orange

4 cups chilled sparkling water

Ice

1.  Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean into a small bowl and add the pods as well.  Add the lime juice and blood orange juice.  Cover and steep for anywhere from 2 hours to overnight.

2.  Strain the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve into a large pitcher.  Add the sparkling water and stir.  Serve in ice-filled glasses.  

printable pdf